Samedi 2 janvier : Danao (Bohol)

Taxi pour Jagna à 90 km de là. Le chauffeur semble très fatigué de ses agapes de la veille. Il doit bouger sans cesse pour ne pas s'endormir. On le paye PHP 1500 soit 21 € et on prend les tickets en 1ère classe pour le bateau car Glynis est malade avec les bateaux philippins. Il fait beaucoup plus chaud ici qu'à Panglao et la clim dans le bateau est glaciale. On rencontre en attendant le bateau un couple de Lausanne Faby et Rija qui deviendront nos amis. Nous découvrons l'île soi-disant la plus volcanique du monde. Seuls, les sommets des volcans émergent des nuages ! Arrivés à Benoni, on monte à 4 couples dans une petite jeepney pour PHP 150 (2,10 € par couple). La première impression du Secret Cove est mauvaise : le propriétaire canadien se fait masser et ne nous accueille même pas, sa femme philippine non plus, la chambre est petite, le resto quelconque. Demain, on louera une moto et on verra bien...

Dimanche 3 janvier : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Caminguin me plait beaucoup et c'est pas une surprise : on la surnome Come again, imaginez une île tropicale sauvage et magnifique avec beaucoup de volcans ! On loue des motos avec Faby et Rija pour découvrir l'île. D'abord ascension du Old volcano, c'est plus dur que je pensais à cause du soleil. Il y a un chemin de croix que je gravis avec peine. Ensuite, direction le Soda water swimming pool pour se rafraîchir, il y a des bulles aux milieu de la piscine naturelle. On mange dans le port de Catarman pour PHP 320 (bières comprises soit 5 €). On termine la journée avec les Ardent Hot springs. Formidable ambiance avec les locaux dans les sources chaudes (40°) issues des volcans. Glynis s'amuse aussi bien avec les vieilles dames que les enfants. Superbes moments partagés. Nous dînerons le soir au Jasmine by the Sea. Pas de lumière sur la moto pour rentrer à l'hôtel, Glynis m'éclaire avec une lampe de poche.

Lundi 4 janvier : Yumbing (Caminguin)

On retrouve Faby et Rija pour se rendre aux chutes de Katibawasan qui font 70 m de haut ! La force de l'eau est tellement impressionnante qu'on ne peut pas s'approcher. On fait quelques photos devant la cascade et on va ensuite à Mambajao, la petite capitale de l'île. On achète des lanzones, sorte de litchis, la spécialité locale et on fait un peu d'Internet. On revient au Jasmine by the Sea car on aime pas le Secret Cove, le proprio canadien ne nous dit même pas bonjour, on n'y restera que pour dormir. A 15 h on part en banca, toujours avec nos amis suisses pour White Island où il n'y a rien à part un banc de sable. On se baigne dans le lagon avec des poissons.

Mardi 5 janvier : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Aujourd'hui tour de l'île en moto. La première partie (sud) est assez longue. On s'arrête dans un village sur pilotis assez pauvre, un avant goût de Mindanao car le touriste est rare ici. Nous mangeons dans un resort près de Binoni où on pêche soi-même son poisson directement mais nous choisissons crevettes et seiches car les poissons ne sont pas stupides. Faby et Rija vont à Mantigue island faire du snorkeling pendant que l'on continue avec notre moto Jusqu'à Mambajao. Dernier repas le soir avec Faby et Rija. On s'amuse beaucoup ensemble et je pique la margerita de la pauvre bête Glynis qui l'a bien mérité ! Rires... Il paraît que je suis un naughty boy ! A bientôt nos amis, on se reverra plus tard en France et en Suisse... Demain la grande aventure avec Mindanao ! Personne ne comprend pourquoi on va là-bas ! Nous non plus d'ailleurs, quelle idée stupide !

Mercredi 6 janvier : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Tricycle pour Benoni et bateau pour Balingoan. Glynis est stressée à cause des enlèvements de touristes mais il n'y a plus de touristes à Mindanao ! Beaucoup de porteurs à l'arrivée et elle est sur la défensive mais c'est normal. Nous prenons le bus pour Butuan city et à 13 h nous mangeons dans le meilleur resto de la ville. Aucun visage pâle ici, ni dans le bateau, ni dans le bus, ni dans l'hôtel. C'est un peu pour ça que j'ai voulu venir ici, hors des sentiers touristiques, pour de l'authentique, le programme se fera au jour le jour au fil des rencontres. Bien qu'il soit indiqué dans notre guide, personne ne connait l'office de Tourisme ici, ni les tricycles, ni les taxis, ni même les hôtels. Pourtant il y en a un mais pour qui, il n'y a aucun touriste ici ! Donc on va au musée Balanguay pour l'ethnologie et l'archéologie. L'hôtesse du musée est tellement contente de voir deux touristes qu'elle rigole tout le temps en nous donnant moult explications. Elle nous dit d'aller à la mairie pour l'office de tourisme mais même ici personne ne semble connaître. C'est pourtant imporant pour nous car nous avions l'intention de nous rendre au c&œlig;ur de Mindanao dans l'Agusan Marsh avec un guide local indispensable pour notre sécurité. On passe de bureau à bureau, des gens téléphonent et on nous dit de rentrer à l'hôtel, un guide va venir à 17h00. Ruel est à l'heure et notre expédition se met en place, on voyagera avec les locaux et on dormira hors des sentiers battus pour être dans les marais à 4h du matin. Notre guide semble compétent et il nous proposent des choses intéressantes. Le soir encore le très bon resto : le Weegols. Bien que nous soyons les seuls blancs, les gens nous ignorent à Butuan qui est la grande ville de la province du Nord.

Jeudi 7 janvier : : Butuan (Mindanao)

Ruel est à l'heure et il nous emmène à l'Office de tourisme que personne ne connait. La responsable est si heureuse de nous voir qu'elle nous offre une pochette avec des prospectus divers et deux colliers en coconut. Elle se demande pourquoi on vient à Mindanao, en plus pour voir l'Agusan Marsh, un endroit complètement perdu ! Elle a besoin de publicité alors si vous allez dans la province du Nord, allez la voir ! On prend un bus climatisé pour Davao et on s'arrêtera à mi-parcours à San Francisco ! Mais au c&œlig;ur de Mindanao, nous ressemblons à 2 steaks devant une meute de chiens affamés. On remonte une rivière qui ressemble vraiment à l'Amazonie, toutes proportions gardées mais la petite expédition coûte PHP 3000 soit 42 € ! Une fortune ici ! Après un frugal repas au milieu de nulle part au cœur de la jungle, entourés par des cochons et des chiens déstinés à l'alimentation des habitants de la hutte, on reviens par la rivière puis on prends un bus local pour Talacogon : le bout du monde ! Les enfants ont peur de nous, la plupart n'ont jamais vu de blancs. On représente pour eux, l'américain type donc très argenté. L’Europe, ils ne connaissent pas. Toutefois certains contacts sont bons et sincères. Soirée karaoké où je chanterai Straiway to Heaven avec les locaux à côté du lodge au confort spartiate (pas de douche, pas de chasse d'eau). Ruel me demande PHP 2000 soit 28 € d'avance pour la journée de demain. On représente le rêve américain pour les locaux ! Même eux ne comprennent pas pourquoi on vient ici au milieu de nulle part. Après le paradis de Palawan où nous avions un bateau pour toute la journée pour PHP 1800 soit 25 € ! Demain nous coûtera PHP 3200 soit 45 € ! Cherchez l'erreur. L'Agusan Marsh c'est pas d'électricité, pas de routes, pas d'eau, pas de communication, 8 villes soit 170 000 habitants très pauvres pour 113.000 ha.

Vendredi 8 janvier : Talacogon (Mindanao)

Mauvaise nuit, il y avait quand même un lit dans la chambre mais rien d'autre. Très peu de gens ont la chance de dormir dans un lit ici, pas de salle de bains, pas de cuvette, juste un robinet d'eau qui sert à vider les toilettes. J'ai mangé du gras de porc la veille (pas d'autre choix) et mon estomac n'a pas apprécié. Lever à 3h30 mais organiser quelque chose ici n'est pas évident pour notre guide Ruel. Nous sommes enfermés pour des questions de sécurité. On doit attendre 4 h qu'on nous ouvre de l'extérieur. On prend un tricycle sans lumières, simplement guidé par notre lampe de poche pour se rendre près de la rivière mais le bateau n'est pas là ! Le jour commence à se lever sur ce village du bout du monde recouvert en saison des pluie par les eaux. Le niveau monte de 30 m ici car l'Agusan Marsh est alimenté par 9 rivières. On monte dans une sorte de planche qui flotte... Glynis n'est pas rassurée mais elle n'a pas le choix et fait preuve de courage pour monter dans cette embarcation. La grande aventure commence, on croise des oiseaux, des maisons flottantes des tribus Manobos. Ici, les enfants apprennent à nager avant de marcher et ils pêchent très jeunes. On traverse des forêts innondées puis petit déjeuner dans le marais, enfin on revient vers la rivière Agusan pour se mêler à un groupe d'étudiantes de Butuan qui tentent d'éradiquer le Janitor, un poisson non comestible qui envahit l'Agusan Marsh. On traverse les marais à pied dans la boue pendant 2 km, une expérience inoubliable malgré la fatigue. Tout le monde se rassemble pour une prière (ce sont des musulmans ici contrairement au reste des Philippines catholique). On a emmené du riz et de l'eau ainsi qu'un morceau de poulet, les enfants Manobos se jetteront sur les os et le reste de riz comme des morts de faim ! On aurait du en prendre plus, ils ne mangent que du poisson ici avec quelques racines ! On rentre avec notre embarcation vers le baranguay (village) d'où nous sommes partis. Sur notre route, on croise d'autres maisons flottantes Manobos, les enfants se baignent nus et ont peur de nous car ils n'ont jamais vus de blancs ! Je laisserai un porte-clé à notre jeune guide de 10 ans qui a ramé pour nous dans les marais. Il y a eu une lueur dans ses yeux que je n'oublierai jamais, il n'a pas dit merci, il n'a pas appris. Retour à San Francisco en passant par le plus grand arbre des Philippines. On se douche enfin et Ruel nous présente Kathleen, une charmante philippine de 24 ans qui aimerait correspondre avec des occidentaux. Nous avons gardé contact Facebook avec Ruel et Kathleen. On ressort seuls le soir pour le marché de nuit mais on nous regarde comme des os à rogner alors on se dépêche de rentrer à l'hôtel, lieu sécurisé gardé par des gardes armés ! Et nous ne sommes pas encore à Davao !

Samedi 9 janvier : San Francisco (Mindanao)

Bus pour Davao, la grande ville du sud de Mindanao. Le contrôleur ne veut pas qu'on s'arrête avant le terminus. Il y a eu plusieurs attentat ici et le climat est explosif, des gardes armés investissent le bus où nous sommes les seuls blancs comme d'habitude. Finalement, le bus nous arrêtera près de l'aéroport car on veut éviter le terminal, un endroit chaud. Un taxi nous emmène au Drifter, c'est en fait un appartement avec cuisine et salle de bains, pas mal pour PHP 1450 soit 7 €. A Davao, il y a des contrôles de sécurité partout. Chaque quartier est isolé et on nous demande de garder nos passeports avant d'entrer dans le quartier du musée. Attention un blanc c'est un américain très riche ! On refuse fermement sentant l'arnaque. Le musée PHP 100 soit 1,40 € est quelconque et environ 2 visiteurs par jour, tous des philippins ! Retour au Drifter Billard et Internet ! Super !

Dimanche 10 janvier : Davao (Mindanao)

On a décidé de prendre les transport locaux plutôt qu'un taxi mais c'est pas évident : le premier jeepney allait finalement dans la bonne direction mais il y a méprise sur la destination car personne ne parle anglais et pas facile de se débrouiller en tagalog car la plupart parle en plus des dialectes. Le jeepney suivant ne va pas dans la bonne direction, tant pis, on fera l'orchid farm mais c'est fermé. On se rend au temple bouddhiste puis au temple taoïste, c'est pas terrible. On arrête un tricycle pour aller à la Crocodile farm mais il dit que seuls les taxis ont le droit d'y aller. OK on demande à un taxi de mettre son compteur en marche, c'est à la périphérie de la ville et le compteur affiche PHP 0,80 soit 1,13 € ! On laisse PHP 100, c'est normal. C'est normalement l'endroit le plus touristique de Davao et il y a quelques touristes, des chinois, des coréens, des japonais mais pas un seul occidental. On nous observe comme des bêtes curieuses. Beaucoup de crocodiles, un orang outan, des perroquets, des autruches. On se fait photographier avec serpent et crocodile comme des touristes que nous sommes ! Nous visitons ensuite un musée avec des maisons tribales. Nous sommes les seuls visiteurs ! En rentrant, on achète un durian, la spécialité de Davao qui a l'odeur de l'enfer mais le goût du paradis. C'est le personnel de l'hôtel qui le coupera car c'est très dur ! Piscine, Internet et billard, le luxe de la civilisation retrouvée.

Lundi 11 janvier : Davao (Mindanao)

On réserve un taxi pour la journée car se rendre à 35 km de la ville peut s'avérer très dangereux pour nous sans gardes du corps. Notre chauffeur s'appelle Bon et il est avare de paroles et ne sourit guère comme la plupart des gens d'ici à l'inverse des autres îles philippines. Le Philippine Eagle Center vaut malgré tout le déplacement. Ne serait-ce que pour observer ces aigles majestueux, les plus grands de la planète mais aussi pour admirer la forêt équatoriale. Mais il pleut et on verra pas le mont Apo, le plus haut sommet des philippines qui culmine à près de 3000 m d'altitude. On s'arrête dans une ferme d'orchidées pour admirer la waling waling, l'orchidée la plus rare du monde car elle ne pousse qu'autour de Davao. On s'arrête à l'Aldivenco Shopping Center où on trouve colliers, bracelets, T-shirts, sacs mais rien pour les hommes. Nouvel arrêt chez Robinson où on achète vin d'Espagne (PHP 145 soit 2,10 €) et mangues séchées.

Mardi 12 janvier : Davao (Mindanao)

Dernier jour aux Philippines. Cebu Pacific a modifier nos horaires d'avion et on a arrive maintenant à 1h du matin à Hong Kong. Après de multiples tentatives, on les obtient par téléphone et il nous ferons passer par Manille. On imprime le précieux document. On prend le jeepney pour aller au centre ville. A pied, en voulant prendre un raccourci, on traverse un bidonville. Impressionnant mais on s'arrête pas, on filme pas. Ensuite direction le muslin fishing village mais c'est aussi une sorte de bidonville et les gens sont hostiles. On se dépêche pendant qu'ils cherchent nos gardes du corps mais on n'en a pas ! On se hâte de rentrer en jeepney, se faire enlever le dernier jour serait stupide ! Les gens ici ne parlent pas, ne sourient pas. On s'arrête au Waterfront Insular Resort, il y a seulement 2 blancs accompagnées de philippines mais ils ne sortent qu'en 4X4 avec vitres teintées. C'est chaud Davao à cause des multiples attentats terroristes ! On remonte au Nova Tierra village après avoir fait quelques courses. On reste au Drifter l'après midi ne voulant prendre plus aucun risques et je laisse gagner Glynis au billard pour la première fois.

Mercredi 13 janvier : Davao (Mindanao)

Les nouvelles météo de l'Europe sont mauvaises à cause d'une épaisse couche de neige mais on verra. Marmarita nous emmène dans son 4X4 de luxe à l'aéroport où la sécurité est importante, bien entendu. Vols pour Hong Kong via Manille mais c'est une autre histoire...

Saturday 2nd January : Danao (Bohol)

Took a taxi to Jagna where we bought tickets for the supercat to Camiguin. Waited in a bar and passed the time by talking to another couple, Fabienne and Rija, who were from Switzerland. We got on really well with them and hope to meet up on the island. First time that we had business class tickets and it was nice not to be squashed in with the crowds. Boat arrived on the other side of Camiguin so we shared a van with 6 others for 75 php each. Left the others at their various hotels and went on to Secret Cove, what a let down, dilapidated small rooms and a general air of neglect. Had dinner, which wasn't good. There were 8 young girls 'working' there and we have the impression that they are 'escort girls' for the clientèle !

Sunday 3rd January : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Hired a bike for 450 php and drove to Jasmine by the Sea, where we had breakfast with Faby and Rija. They decided to hire a bike as well so we could go exploring together. The bikes at their hotel are cheaper, 300 php, so we will hire from there tomorrow. We drove to the Old Volcano and ascended via the walkway, which had stanchions of Christ's crucifixion along the route. It was very hot and D was suffering a little, but we had lovely views from the top. When we returned had much needed refreshing drinks at the bar. Drove to the Port where we found a little restaurant, once again an old English man married to a young local girl, and had a good meal. Drove to the Soda Swimming pool and had a dip and then on to Ardent Hot Springs. The natural pools there got progressively hotter the further up one went. We all went in and had a great time, I splashed around with some local children while the others swam in the deeper pools. We all went back to Secret Cove where we had a Rum cocktail and watched he sun set. Visited the resort next to ours, lovely place but the rooms are too expensive. We arranged to meet Faby and Rija for dinner. After our shower we went to take the bike to their place, discovered we have no lights so had a very hazardous trip to their resort ! Had a nice meal and arranged to meet up again tomorrow.

Monday 4th January : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Rija picked up D to collect our bike from their resort, D returned for me and we had breakfast with them again. We had a laugh because our bike was a beauty while theirs was a bit 'dated'. Drove to Katibasan Falls which was quite impressive. Rija went in the water to the fall and it was so powerful he couldn't get too close. Drove on to Mombajao where we had lunch and did some shopping. Drove back to Jasmine resort where we hired a boat to White Island. This is a very small spit of white sand in a beautiful blue sea, it has good views of the volcano. We did some snorkeling and relaxed a little before taking the boat back. Had dinner at Jasmine with Faby and Rija, we enjoy their company and had a really good day again, with them.

Tuesday 5th January : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Had breakfast again with Faby and Rija and decided to have a tour of the Island. Had a look at the Old Church ruins and the Cross for the sunken cemetery. Had lots of photo stops. When we reached Bioni we looked at boat times and have decided to take the 9.30 am boat tomorrow for Mindanao. We had lunch at a fish farm where you could catch your own meal. We decided to have something from the menu to save time, just as well because there was a family trying to catch their fish and during an hour had no luck! Stopped at a place that had boats for hire to Mantique Island. Faby and Rija have decided to take the trip and do some snorkeling, but as it was already 2 pm we decided to return, we want to upload our photos at the Internet café. Arranged to meet at our hotel and have dinner nearby as we won't have transport tonight. Connection very slow so we only managed to upload 5 photos for facebook. Left the bike at Jasmine and took a tricycle back to our hotel. Later Faby and Rija arrived and had a drink with us. D and Rija took the bike to the restaurant, D was tired, and left us to walk along the unlit road ! When we arrived they were already installed at a table, we ordered Margaritas and for once us women were served first. Faby and I were enthusing over the drinks and D said I don't really like it, I offered a little taste and he drank it all, and then his own when it arrived! We had a really great evening with F and J despite the food being expensive and disappointing. Said our goodbye's to them and have promised to keep in touch.

Wesnesday 6th January : Yumbing (Caminguin)

Arrived at Binoni at 8.30 am, there was a boat ready for departure, we bought two tickets for 270 php and were able to gain an hour. On arrival at Balingoan took the bus into Butuan and then a tricycle to look for a hotel. The first one we tried had a tiny room with no windows, the Butuan Luxury Hotel had a room for 800 php which was better. Had lunch with beers for 300 php and then had a walk around to look for the Tourist Office. Asked at several hotels and no one knew where it was, they don't get many tourists here. Took a tricycle to the museum which was small, but we were shown around by the curator, who was good at explaining the exhibits. She directed us to the Town Hall, where eventually someone was found who knew where the tourist office was. Once there we explained that we wanted to visit Agusan Marsh, a guide was 'phoned and we arranged to meet him laer at our hotel. How different the people here are, they are not as warm and welcoming as in other parts of the Philippines, luckily Tisha had warned us about this. Our guide, Ruel, arrived at 5 pm and showed us photos and described the area. He appears very knowledgeable and we have decided to take the trip, will meet him at 8.30 am tomorrow.

Thursday 7th January : Butuan (Mindanao)

Ruel and his wife Louie arrived and took us in their car to the tourist office. There we were met by the woman in charge who gave us maps and necklaces made from coconut. Louie left us at the bus terminal where we caught the San Fransisco bus. Ruel has arranged a special river trip for today, 3,000 php including transport. Left our things at the Hotel San Fransico, 450 php a room, and took a jeepney to the river crossing. There was another guide there, a woman, Jean, with a small native boat and boatman, Jill. During the trip, Jean explained about the flora and fauna, so many huge luxuriant trees and plants. A picnic upriver, close to Jill's home, had been arranged, the landing was tricky and we had to scramble up through the jungle to reach a clearing. We passed a couple of native huts on stilts, the people here are very poor, sleep on bamboo mattresses and cook on fires outside. There were lots of mangy dogs around and I was glad we had Ruel with us. For the first time ever I saw Pineapples growing wild. After lunch we returned to the landing stage and were asked for our payment...2 hours for 3,000 php, this was really excessive, a warning to others, do not take this 'extra river trip' it is not at all value for money ! Caught a bus to Talacogon where we booked into the Travellers Rest, 450 php for a tiny room with a shower, we were the only clients. Had a walk around the town and market with Ruel, he bought us a fruit called a marron, it was delicious. Had dinner with Ruel and ordered our food for tomorrow's trip to Agusan Marsh. Ruel left us to stay the night with a friend, we went to the bar next door to the hotel where there was a karaoke machine. The local young adolescents were there, unlike the youth in Europe, they love all the old romantic songs. Didier sang and we shared some beers with them and left some money for the karaoke. Ruel called by and asked for 2000 php advance for tomorrow. Shower won't work so I had a wash in a bucket as there is no sink in the room. D was sick for the second night and had problems breathing.

Friday 8th January : Talacogon (Mindanao)

Up at 3.20 am, the front door of the hotel was padlocked and the windows barred, we had to search around in reception for the key. Ruel arrived at 4 am with a tricycle, it was dark and the lights wouldn't work. We drove 10 kms through rough trails with Didier shining his flashlight ahead! The boat wasn't ready, engine problems, we were invited to sit on the porch of a floating house which was 'dry docked' at the moment. Another boat was hastily found, it was a small native craft, very low in the water, more like a hollowed out log, and quite scary. We had a young boy who was steering the craft and paddling. The current was very strong,I can't swim and there was no life jacket ! Went down river and entered Agusan Marsh which is a huge area where 9 rivers drain. The wildlife and greenery are incredible and there are lots of birds. We stopped on a tiny island to stretch our legs, the boat is very uncomfortable, and Didier has cramp, we also had a bite to eat. Passed through several large lakes, don't know how anyone can find their way through this maze, it has taken Ruel 10 years to find his way around! We saw some floating houses, the water here can rise 30 metres in the rainy season, these have a deck type structure where animals are kept. The children here have never seen any white people before,they were very afraid of us and thought that we were bad spirits! The first thing a newborn baby learns is how to swim, if not they die ! Went to the visitor centre, a floating boat, where we met some students who were studying how to eliminate the Janitor fish; it's a big problem here as it's killing the native species. We were invited to go on a field trip with them, which we did. We had to cross the river on a tiny boat and then walk barefoot for over 1 km through mud, rough vegetation and sometimes knee high water. The going was difficult but they are used to it, I had to be helped across some of the more hazardous places, or I would have been face down in deep mud several times ! We were shown the Janitor fish and given an explanation of the student's work. As it was hot they all jumped fully clothed into the lake, not me, I can't swim and would be too afraid of attracting the crocodiles ! When we returned to the visitor centre we had to wash off in the river as we were covered in mud. We had the rest of our picnic here, which we shared with some children who were obviously half starved. Their diet is fish, and even young children have to catch their own food, sometimes they can exchange the fish for rice at the market, other times their parents exchange it forlocal rum and cigarettes ! We were asked to say a few words to the students and locals and it was quite a touching moment. Back to the landing area where the locals gathered to have their photo taken with us, we gave our young boatman a key ring, which he looked at with wide eyes, never having seen one before ! We went back to Talacogen by tricycle where we took a van to San Francisco. Stopped en route to see the Toog tree, this is the largest tree in the Philippines, and quite impressive. We returned to the hotel where we had a chat with Ruel and paid him 5,000 php, which we thought quite reasonable. We did mention that we were not happy with the river trip at 3,000 php and he will omit it from his itinerary in future. We had a shower and he returned later to introduce us to Kathleen, a pretty girl, who works in a local bank, and whose photo has been used on tourist publicity. Exchanged facebook details with her, said our good bye's to them, and have promised to keep in touch with her and Ruel. Dinner in the hotel 420 php .

Saturday 9th January : San Francisco (Mindanao)

Took the bus to Davao 700 php, once again we were the only foreigner's. On the outskirts of Davao we passed an army checkpoint, armed soldiers boarded the bus, they were looking for terrorists. We got off the bus near the airport and took a taxi to Drifter's hotel, luckily we had a map because the driver didn't know the way. We had to pass through a gated security area to reach the hotel. We have a nice room, 1450 php, with a small kitchen, a/c, television and balcony. We set out to walk to the museum, asked a man the way, and some moments later he passed us in his car, stopped and offered a lift. This can be quite risky, as there have been foreigners kidnapped and held to ransom.He left us near to the museum, once again the road had a checkpoint with armed guards. We had to show our passports, the guards wanted to keep them until we returned, we refused.Be very aware of this scam, they want to take your passport and then have you pay a large sum for it's return. Take a photocopy of and leave that instead. We are very lucky that Ruel has given us the name of an attorney who is the Commissioner for Immigration, it could prove useful here ! Had a look around the museum and then caught the local transport, 6 pesos, back to Drifters. Had a dip in the pool and played billiards before dinner in our room.

Sunday 10th January : Davao (Mindanao)

Took a tricycle to the junction with the main road 12 php, and then a jeepney to the centre. Walked to the Orchid farm, it was closed so we carried on to the Buddhist Temple. Nicely decorated and a very calm place, their teachings are so sensible, why can't other religions be so tolerant ? Walked to the Taoist Temple, there was a service taking place so we didn't go inside. We negotiated a price of 100 php with a taxi driver to go to the Crocodile Farm. Paid 200 php for entry. Once again we were the only foreigners there, we felt a bit like one of the exhibits as everyone was staring, it's so rare to see Europeans here. There was old fashioned country music playing from all the speakers, a bit intrusive but the people here love it ! Didier had his photo taken with a baby crocodile, and I had mine taken with a big snake wrapped around me. Had lunch at the restaurant which was at the side of the river, saw a man paddling by standing on a log ! Visited the Ethnic Village which is on the same site, it was very well constructed but hardly any visitors. Walked on to visit the nearby Butterfly Farm where we saw lots of different species. Took a taxi back to the junction, we bought a Durian, some chicken and other things for tonights dinner. Took a tricycle back to Drifters, one of the maids there said her boyfriend can take us to Eden Park, and to visit the eagles for 2,500 php, we have agreed to go with him. Had a dip in the pool, gave the Durian to the female chef to open, very difficult, we gave her some money for her help. Had a nice meal in our room. My impressions of Mindanao are mixed, the innocence of the 'marsh people' and then the security forces everywhere. I was more at ease with the 'native' people than the more sophisticated urban people here. Davao claims to be the safest, cleanest city in the Philippines, of that I am not sure !

Monday 11st January : Davao (Mindanao)

Our car, with Bong as chauffeur, arrived at 8.30 am, it was raining all the way to Eden Park so we couldn't see Mount Apo. Had a walk around the park and then on to visit the famous Philippine Eagles, the largest in the world. They are kept in enclosed areas, they really are magnificent despite looking a bit bedraggled in the rain. There were lots of other birds there as well, one of the paths led through a luxuriant jungle with lovely plants and flowers and we saw some lovely birds in liberty. Stopped at an Orchid Farm to see the famous Walung-Walung orchid which only grows here. So many beautiful orchids, I would love to be able to grow them but not possible in France ! Stopped at Robinson's shopping centre where we bought some souvenirs. Back to the hotel, where we tried again and again to connect with Cebu, had dinner in our room, played billiards and had a drink in the bar, finally got through to Cebu at 4 am, and were able to change our flight.

Tuesday 12nd January : Davao (Mindanao)

Took a tricycle to the junction and then a jeepney to the centre. Walked to the Muslim Fishing Village, a big mistake because it was a very hostile environment. The only reason we were not attacked, was, because normally any foreigners have bodyguards with them. The 'locals' watched us and then waited for our escort, by which time we had already passed. A very unpleasant experience, we didn't even try to take photos for fear of attracting a bad response. Caught a jeepney back to the junction, tried to withdraw cash from the ATM but had problems, eventually my card worked. Walked to the Waterfront Insular hotel, had to pass a security checkpoint and armed guards at the entrance, had a walk around the grounds, saw only one other European, an older man with a young local girl ! Returned to the junction where we bought some food for our dinner and then took a tricycle back to Drifters.

Wesnesday 13rd January : Davao (Mindanao)

We were taken to the airport by Marmarita, the proprietor's wife. Paid airport tax of 200 php each. When we landed at Manilla had to pay another 75O php each airport tax! Once we arrived at Hong Kong had to change some money, bought express train tickets to Kowloon. Took a taxi to our hotel which is in the centre, left our bags and then went out to eat. Had a walk around, feel much safer here at night than I ever did in Davao during the day. The people here are very friendly, the city is clean and there is no aggression. We found an area selling lovely clothes so we bought some T shirts and a kimono for D. Back to the hotel which is very well situated and is surprisingly quiet.